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Here’s another story on California salads. Hope you enjoy The photo is by Gabe Sachs, a wonderful photographer and serious foodie!

Growing up in Los Angeles, I had the opportunity to enjoy just about every version of the famous Brown Derby Cobb salad that was offered. You can still find the original Cobb salad, named after Bob Cobb, the owner of the Brown Derby, at any number of California restaurants. In fact this salad has become a national favorite in restaurants across the country. Chopped iceberg lettuce is the basic ingredient, along with blue cheese, cooked chicken, crisp crumbled bacon, diced avocado, and tomato garnishes. Sometimes it comes mixed and other times it is presented with a pretty design of all of the ingredients on top.

I’ve reinterpreted this salad by adding a mix of more flavorful greens, including arugula and watercress, and blending in raw corn and shreds of imported Parmesan. I often forgo the chicken and serve this as a first course. While the old standards of blue cheese, avocado, and bacon are delicious, this lighter version is a welcome change.

The creamy balsamic dressing combines the bold flavors of shallots, lemon and balsamic and is tempered by the tangy yet creamy non-fat yogurt. You can try this with other salad dressings when you are looking for a creamy result without the calories.

Look for crisp romaine leaves, bright green arugula leaves and sweet bell peppers that are at their peak this time of year. Fresh corn kernels add a burst of late summery sweetness and the shards of Parmesan cheese add a nutty richness. You can chop this as fine or as coarse as you prefer. Accompany with a basket of warm sourdough rolls. Serve a crisp, dry white wine to balance the creamy dressing like a Sauvingon Blanc or a Reisling.

Farmer’s Market “Cobb” Salad

Serves 2 to 3 as a Main Course Salad or 4 to 6 as a First Course

Creamy Balsamic Yogurt Dressing

1 medium shallot, finely chopped

1 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons plain nonfat yogurt

1/4 teaspoon salt

Pinch of black pepper

Salad

1 medium head of romaine lettuce, light green and white leaves only, finely chopped

1 bunch of arugula, coarsely chopped

1 bunch of watercress, leaves only, coarsely chopped

1 skinless medium whole chicken breast, cooked and diced into 1/4-inch pieces

1/2 medium red bell pepper, diced into 1/4-inch pieces

1/4 European cucumber, diced into 1/4-inch pieces

1 ear of white or sweet yellow corn, husked and shucked

1/4 cup coarsely shredded Parmesan cheese (use a shredder or peeler)

1. In a small mixing bowl, combine the shallot, vinegar, lemon juice, and mustard and whisk to combine. Slowly add the oil, whisking to incorporate. Add the yogurt, salt, and pepper and blend well. Taste for seasoning.

2. Combine all salad ingredients in a large salad bowl. Add dressing and toss until all vegetables are well coated. Sprinkle freshly ground pepper on the salad if desired and serve.

Advance Preparation

The dressing can be prepared up to 1 day ahead and refrigerated. Whisk the dressing well before using. The salad can be prepared 2 hours ahead and refrigerated. (Since the salad is chopped with a metal knife, the lettuce may begin to brown after 2 hours.)

Salads and California cooking just go together. As a child growing up in Los Angeles, I had the pleasure of sampling the most famous of all chopped salads known as Leon Gourmet Salad at La Scala Boutique Restaurant in Beverly Hills. On Saturdays my family and I would stop by the restaurant for their delicious pureed vegetable soup and a chopped salad served with some of the best bread in town. It was a tradition I treasure.

Today there are a few La Scala Restaurants in Los Angeles and they still make the original chopped salad. Iceberg lettuce, finely chopped but still crisp, is mixed with chopped romaine, Genoa salami, mozzarella cheese and canned garbanzo beans. Who would have thought such a simple combination would be so appreciated and emulated?

The story goes that many of La Scala’s celebrity clientele were tired of the simple antipasto platter so owner Jean Leon created this salad, taking the antipasto ingredients and chopping them up with the lettuce. It was an instant hit and still is today. La Scala Restaurant still serves more of these salads at lunchtime than anything else on the menu. I like it just as much for dinner!

You’ll find variations on this salad on restaurant menus cross the country. Chefs love to create their own signature on this classic and so can you. I try to keep the ingredients limited so that all the flavors work together instead of compete with one another. Some other flavor additions or substitutions you might consider include sweet red or orange bell peppers, ripe red or yellow tomatoes, cucumbers, provolone, feta cheese or even olives. Another favorite of mine is to chop up chilled grilled vegetables and top with some goat cheese.

While I love the original chopped salad I like to make it in many variations. When summertime rolls around I gravitate to this version. Take the freshest greens, add perfectly ripe chopped tomatoes, raw sweet corn, a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese and dress it with a peppery arugula balsamic vinaigrette. Fresh basil works if you can’t find arugua.

For a more substantial main course salad, add cooked chicken or seafood. If green beans are particularly sweet I’ll steam them up, chill them and add them just before serving. Begin with bowls of your favorite chilled soup for an alfresco light lunch or dinner. Don’t forget some crusty French or Italian bread and small bowls of fruity olive for dipping.

Help is on the way: Make the salad no more than 2 hours ahead since the metal from the knife will darken the lettuce leaves. Use a chopping board and a chef’s knife for chopping up the ingredients. To shuck the corn, hold the husked corn on the vertical and slide the chefs knife down the sides releasing the corn kernels. Use a peeler to grate the cheese into thin shards. The dressing can be prepared one day in advance and refrigerated. Whisk dressing well before using.

Summer Chopped Salad with Arugula Vinaigrette

Serves 4-6

Dressing

1 shallot, finely chopped

1 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/3 cup olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup packed coarsely chopped arugula leaves

1/2 pound of fresh mixed salad greens, finely chopped

1 large ripe tomato, coarsely chopped

1/2 cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced into 1/4-inch pieces

1 fresh ear of white or sweet yellow corn, husked and shucked

1/4 cup coarsely shredded Parmesan cheese (you can use a shredder or peeler)

1. In the food processor fitted with the metal blade combine the shallot, vinegar, lemon juice and mustard and process to combine. Slowly add the oil, whisking to incorporate. Add the salt and pepper and arugula and pulse until well blended. Taste for seasoning.

2. Combine all salad ingredients into a large salad bowl. Add dressing and toss until all vegetables are well coated. Sprinkle freshly ground pepper on the salad if desired, and serve.

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When I am in a pinch for time but want something special for dessert I often fall back on preparing a crostata. Sometimes called a galette in French cooking, this free-form tart has endless variations., A crostata is made by rolling out a slightly sweet pastry dough into a large round. The fruit is placed in the center of the pastry and the dough is pulled up around the fruit and folded over to create a rustic looking tart, rather than a perfect-looking formal fruit tart..

The unassuming appearance can actually be a good thing. Even my friends who fear pastry making have great success with this recipe because it doesn’t have to be picture perfect. The rough country look also expands the opportunity for variation. I have seen versions that feature thick raspberry jam, fresh pitted cherries, apricots and nectarines, blueberries and raspberries to name a few. Make sure to adjust the amount of sugar you add, depending on the sweetness of the fruit you select.

Make sure to roll out the pastry dough to a large 13-inch circle. I keep extra flour on the pastry slab and rolling pin to keep the dough from sticking. You’ll notice that you immediately roll out the dough. The reason is that I use frozen butter that keeps the dough sufficiently chilled. I also use white pastry flour that has a lower gluten content and does not need to rest. If you are using all-purpose flour you can chill it for a half hour before rolling out.

Here I have combined silky purple plums with sweet yellow peaches, two of my favorite summer fruits. In this crowd-pleasing dessert, the skin is deliberately left on the plums and peaches for a rustic texture. Nectarines can be substituted for the peaches if you like. I like to serve this warm so I will bake it an hour or two before serving. Don’t forget a scoop of French vanilla ice cream.

Peach and Plum Crostata

Serves 6

Crust

1 1/4 cups white pastry flour or all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

8 tablespoons (1 stick) frozen, unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1/4 cup ice water

Filling

5 tablespoons sugar, divided

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, divided

3 medium or 2 large plums, ( Santa Rosa’s work nicely), pitted and cut into 1/2-inch pieces

3 medium or 2 large peaches, pitted and cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1 pint French vanilla ice cream (optional)

1. Prepare the pastry: Place the flour, salt and sugar in a food processor fitted with a metal blade and process for about 5 seconds. Add the butter and a few tablespoons of water and process until you have a crumb-like texture, about 5-10 seconds. Pat the dough into a round form for easy rolling. If using pastry flour continue immediately. If using all-purpose flour, refrigerate, covered for half hour.

2. Place a 10-inch diameter removable bottom disc of a springform or removable tart pan on a heavy baking sheet with a rim. (You won’t need the sides of the springform or tart pan for this freeform tart.) On a floured surface roll out the pastry into a round 13 inches in diameter. Roll the pastry back onto the rolling pin and transfer it to the tart bottom round, laying the dough flat to cover the round with a 3 inch border overlap all around on the baking sheet. Refrigerate while making the filling.

3. Preheat the oven to 400F. In a medium mixing bowl, combine 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 tablespoon flour, plums and peaches. Remove the tart from the refrigerator and sprinkle 2 tablespoons sugar and 1 tablespoon flour evenly over the center of the crust. Arrange the fruit mixture in the center of the pastry and then fold about 3 inches of the pastry edges up around the fruit, making pleats, to look like a free-form tart. Brush the pastry with water and evenly sprinkle the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar over the pastry and fruit.

4. Bake the tart for 40-45 minutes or until the fruit filling is bubbling and the crust is caramelized. Let cool at least 20 minutes on a wire rack. Slide the tart pan bottom to a serving platter. Slice and serve with ice cream.

Advance Preparation: Can be made up to 8 hours ahead and kept at room temperature. Serve room temperature or reheat in the oven.

With summertime upon us I like to have some standby recipes that I can count on for a satisfying meal. Main course salads are big on my list for lazy summertime dishes. Here’s a time-tested salad that I love.

This classic Provencal salad is said to originate in the city of Nice France. It can be served on a bed of lettuce with the vegetables grouped together along with the eggs, tuna and black olives. Here most of the vegetables and the tuna are mixed together with an assertive citrus vinaigrette. The eggs, tomatoes and basil are arranged around the salad to provide a colorful garnish. More dressing can be served on the side.

It’s easy to julienne vegetables once you know how. To julienne a vegetable cut it into a rectangle and then cut into thin slices one way and then cut into thin slices the other way creating long, thin slices that look pretty in the salad.

Make sure to cook the hard-boiled eggs so that they have a bright yellow center that offsets the other colors in the salad. The best method is to bring the eggs to a boil and then turn off the heat, cover them for 10 minutes. Cool and peel.

Nicoise olives are small, dark and oval-shaped. Their briny meatiness add a unique and defining signature to this zesty vegetable and tuna mixture. You can find Nicoise olives that are grown in France or Morocco in most super markets.

For a festive lunch, begin with a chilled soup like sweet pea or corn soup. Serve the salad with crusty French rolls. To drink, why not a chilled Sauvignon Blanc or a French Rose? Dessert can be as simple as sliced peaches and nectarines along with a chunk of Port Salut or a log of fresh goat cheese.

Salad Nicoise

Serves 6 to 8

1 pound red-skinned potatoes
1 pound green beans, cleaned and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
2 medium carrots, peeled and julienned
1 small sweet red pepper, seeded and julienned
1/2 cup Nicoise olives, drained and stemmed
1 small red onion, very thinly sliced and cut into 11/2-inch pieces
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained
2 tablespoons finely basil
Freshly ground black pepper
3 cans imported tuna packed in oil, drained and broken into chunks

Dressing
2 medium cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons finely chopped basil
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Garnish
3 hard-cooked eggs, quartered, for garnish
2 small tomatoes, sliced into sixths , for garnish
Basil leaves, for ganish

1. In a large pot of boiling water, cook the potatoes until tender but slightly resistant when pierced with a fork, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain and cool. When cool, peel and cut into julienne slices. Place in a large bowl.

2. In a medium saucepan bring water to a boil. Immerse the green beans and cook until tender but slightly resistant, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain and place in ice water to stop the cooking. When cool, drain well and place in the bowl with the potatoes.

3. Add the carrots, red pepper, olives, red onion, capers, basil, black pepper and half of the tuna to the vegetables and toss to combine.

4. To make the dressing: In a small bowl combine the garlic, mustard, basil, and lemon juice. Slowly whisk in the olive oil until thoroughly combined. Add the salt and pepper and taste for seasoning.

5. When ready to serve, use just enough dressing to moisten the salad. Toss carefully to combine, making sure not to break up the capers. Taste for seasoning. Mound the salad high in a large, shallow bowl. Place the remaining tuna on the top of the salad. Spoon a little dressing on the tuna. Alternate the egg wedges and tomato wedges around the outside edge. Garnish with basil leaves and serve. Serve extra dressing on the side.

Braised Chicken With Tomatillos and Cilantro: A Simple Mexican Dish

I am always surprised when people think that Mexican sauces are just different types of salsa.. Actually, Mexican sauces can be complex and incredibly flavorful. If you’ve never tasted an authentic mole sauce you owe it to yourself to seek one out. Full of rich smoked chile flavor and accented with Mexican chocolate, mole sauce is in a word “soulful”. That’s the good news. The bad news is that you need to plan a day or two to prepare a mole sauce.

When I am in the mood for Mexican flavor but don’t have lots of time I make this far less time consuming dish. It’s pretty simple to cook once you roast and peel the chilies and take the husks off of the fresh tomatillos. Remember that this dish can be as mild or hot as you like. For the mild version use the gentle Anaheim chile; for the hot version use the spicier poblano.. If you are unable to find fresh chilies, the canned variety will do.

Tomatillos are small, round, green and resemble large cherry tomatoes. They have an herbal and slightly tart flavor and are often used in sauces, soups and stews. Known as tomates verde, tomatillos are easy to clean and use. To remove the husks, hold the fruit under warm running water, peel off the husk, and rinse off the sticky residue that coats the skin.

When selecting tomatillos, look for firm, green fruit with unwrinkled husks. Remember that when the tomatillos are cooked they become sweeter and less acidic than when they are eaten raw.

This chicken, fragrant with the tomatillo and cilantro sauce, is a great dish for family and friends. Begin with a bowl of guacamole and fresh chips. Serve the chicken with rice and green beans and don’t forget warm corn or flour tortillas. I like to serve Mexican beer with the chicken.

Braised Chicken With Tomatillos and Cilantro

Serves 4 to 6

3 medium Anaheim or poblano chilies*

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1 medium chicken fryer (about 3 1/2 pounds), cut up

1 whole medium chicken breast, halved

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 cups chicken stock

6 medium garlic cloves, minced

11/2 pound tomatillos, husked and quartered

3 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

cilantro leaves, for garnish

1. To peel the chilies, place on a broiler pan and broil approximatelv 6 inches from the heat until blackened on all sides. Use tongs to turn. Close tightly in a brown paper bag. Let rest for 10 minutes. Remove the chilies from the bag, drain, and peel. Make a slit in each chile and open it up. Core, cut off the stem, and scrape out the seeds and ribs. Chop the chilies into 1/4-inch pieces.

2. Dry the chicken pieces carefully. In a large saute pan heat half of the oil over medium-high heat. Saute until lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. You may have to do this in batches, adding the remaining oil as needed. Remove to a side platter.

3. Add the onion and saute over medium heat until soft but not brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and deglaze the pan by turning up the heat and scraping the brown bits off the bottom.

4. Add the garlic, reserved chilies, tomatillos, cilantro, and cumin. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Add the browned chicken pieces and simmer on low, covered, turning the chicken once to cook evenly. Simmer until the chicken pieces are just done, about 20 minutes. (Remove the smaller pieces first.)

5. Transfer the chicken onto a serving platter and cover with aluminum foil to keep warm.

6. Add the lime juice to the pan and then reduce the sauce until slightly thickened. Add the salt and pepper. Taste for seasoning. Pour over the chicken pieces and garnish with the fresh cilantro leaves.

* When working with chilies always wear rubber gloves. Wash the cutting surface and knife immediately afterward.