Thanksgiving in California, especially Southern California, can sometimes feel a little like the twilight zone. After all, the temperature in most other places across the nation is chilly and the weather often inclement. And the food that we’re supposed to eat is usually heavy comfort food which doesn’t quite align with Palm trees and sunshine.

My phone may be ringing from a friend in Nantucket who is describing the blizzard she is stuck in , but I’m usually trying to figure out how to keep it cool enough in the house for my family not to ask if we can have turkey salad instead of the traditional roasted bird.

Even with the atypical autumn California weather we often experience, I still like my traditions. Homemade mashed potatoes, a cranberry relish and a pumpkin dessert are expected at the meal.  Make them all or make just one and bring it along to wherever you’re going.

Sometimes its fun to shake up tradition. If I am having a small group I like to serve Cornish Hens with Dried Cranberries instead of turkey. This recipe comes from my dear friend, author Ciji Ware. This is one of those recipes that you can do quickly and without a lot of fuss–and let’s face it, there are times even for Thanksgiving when cooking up a giant feast isn’t in the cards.

Adding the dried cranberries is an interesting note to the savory marinade. Ask your butcher to halve the hens for you. They cook faster and they are more attractive served on the plate. Figure1/2 hen per person and 1 hen for a large eater. So if you are having a small group, consider roasting these tasty hens

If you got off the hook this year and all you have to do is be the good guest, how about a wonderful bottle of California Zinfandel or Nouveau Beaujolais to accompany the holiday meal or a few See’s chocolate-wrapped turkeys for the harried host?

Roasted Cornish Hens with Dried Cranberries

Serves 4-6

Marinade

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons sherry or Marsala

1/4 cup olive oil

2 shallots, minced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 Cornish hens, about 1 1/2 pounds each, cut in half

1 bunch watercress, for garnish

1/4 cup dried cranberries

1/2 cup white wine

1.     In a small mixing bowl combine the marinade ingredients and mix to combine. Place the hen halves in a zip-lock bag and pour in the marinade. Make sure the marinade is evenly distributed. Zip the bag and refrigerate for 2-8  hours.

2.     Preheat the oven to 425F. Remove the hens from the marinade and place them in a heavy roasting pan, breast side up. Pour over the remaining marinade. Roast the hens about 40-45 minutes, basting with the pan juices every 15 minutes, until the hens are golden brown.

3.     Place the hens on a serving platter and cover with foil.

4.     Add the cranberries and wine to the hens’ juices and place on top of the stove on medium-high heat. Reduce the juices for about 3 minutes or until the cranberries are softened. Taste for seasoning. Spoon over the hens, garnish with the watercress and serve immediately.

Advance Preparation: This may be made through step 1 up to 8 hours ahead and refrigerated.

What’s a whoppie pie? Think of it as two cupcake-sized muffin tops filled with a creamy marshmallow filling. These pies seem to be everywhere in the northeast—gas stations, diners and small grocery stores. You can usually find them wrapped in plastic and ready to eat. If you want to make them from scratch you’re in luck.

Recently I was happy to come upon a wonderful book called Whoopie pies. My editor at Chronicle Books,  Amy Treadwell and her co-author Sarah Billingsley,  penned this deliciously decadent book. You will discover the baking basics, the many flavor possibilities and frostings galore.  This beautifully illustrated and photographed work may change your thoughts about holiday baking this year. The mix and match possibilities are almost endless. I can’t think of anything more fun for a Halloween party than a big platter of whoopie pies. Kids and adults all love them. If you want to try your hand at these homemade bite-sized cakes try this basic recipe below.

A few other things to know about this moon-shaped sweet:

•  You can make the cakes up ahead and freeze them til ready to eat. Simply place the cooled cakes on a cookie sheet and freeze for an hour. Place in a lock-top plastic bag, making sure to remove excess air, and freeze. Defrost the cakes for at least 2 hours before filling.

• Whoopie pies are best eaten within a day of making them. Make sure to store them in an airtight container in a single layer, as they tend to stick together. You can also wrap them individually in plastic wrap.

• The authors insist that Crisco is an essential filling element because it encourages lightness and a rounded whoopie shape. The also say that the longer you beat the filling ingredients, the lighter and fluffier the filling will be.

 Classic Chocolate Whoopie Pies

Makes about 48 two-inch cakes , Makes 24 pies

1 2/3 cups all-purpose flour

2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

4 tablespoons vegetable shortening

1 cup (packed) dark brown sugar

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup milk

1.  Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
2.  Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt onto a sheet of waxed paper. In the work bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the butter, shortening, and brown sugar on low speed until just combined. Increase the speed to medium and beat until fluffy and smooth, about 3 minutes. Add the egg and vanilla and beat for another 2 minutes.

3. Add half of the flour mixture and half of the milk to the batter and beat on low until just incorporated. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the remaining flour mixture and 1/2 cup milk and beat until completely combined.
4.  Using a spoon, drop about 1 tablespoon of batter onto one of the prepared baking sheets and repeat, spacing them at least 2 inches apart. Bake one sheet at a time for about 10 minutes each, or until the pies spring back when pressed gently. Remove from the oven and let the cakes cool in the pan for about 5 minutes before transferring them to a rack to cool completely.

Classic Marshmallow Filling

1 1/2 cups Marshmallow Fluff (or other prepared marshmallow cream, which will do in a pinch)

1 1/4 cups vegetable shortening
1 cup confectioners’ sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1. In the work bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the Marshmallow Fluff and the vegetable shortening, starting on low and increasing to medium speed until the mixture is smooth and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Reduce the mixer speed to low, add the confectioners’ sugar and the vanilla, and beat until incorporated.  Increase the mixer speed to medium and beat until fluffy, about 3 minutes more.

Assembling the Cakes

1.  Spread the filling on to the flat side of one of the cakes, using a knife or spoon.
2.  Top it with another cake flat side down. Repeat with the remaining cakes and filling.
3.  Alternately you can use a pastry bag with a rounded tip to pipe the filling onto the cakes, which will give you a smaller, neater presentation.

I am partial to vegetable and potato soups when the weather turns cold. Winter squash and sweet potatoes are a complementary blend for a soup. Easy to put together and satisfying for your family or friends, this bright orange puree has lots of interesting flavor notes. The squash and sweet potatoes contribute a sweet essence. Roasting the vegetables brings out their inherent sweetness by lightly caramelizing them. (Once you roast these vegetables you may never cook them any other way.)

Fresh thyme and sage leaves add an herbal flavor layer that enhances the sweet potatoes and squash. The herbed sour cream adds a creamy note without adding lots of extra fat. Many soups call for cream in the base; this rendition gets its creamy texture from blending the vegetables and stock—so you can enjoy it guilt-free. This is a stylish vegetarian soup option as well.

When shopping for sweet potatoes, it is important to select the moist, reddish brown-skinned sweet potatoes (often labeled yams), rather than the drier, yellowish-skinned sweet potatoes that are decidedly less sweet. Look for a ripe butternut squash and carefully peel it with either a sharp knife or a serrated peeler. Scoop out the seeds and cut it into small pieces. If you are strapped for time, pick up a ¾ to 1 pound package of peeled and cut-up squash.

It’s fun to serve this with a glass of Beaujolais Noveau.

Roasted Butternut Squash-Sweet Potato Soup with Herbed Sour Cream

Serves 6

2 pounds moist (reddish brown-skinned) sweet potatoes (about 3 medium), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

1 small butternut squash (about 1 1/4 pounds), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

1 medium onion, quartered

1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme

1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh sage

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

5 cups vegetable or chicken stock

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Salt and white pepper

1/2 cup sour cream

1. Preheat the oven to 425F.

2. In a large bowl, combine sweet potatoes, squash, onion, 1 tablespoon each of the thyme and sage. Add olive oil and toss to coat. Spoon mixture onto a baking sheet, with a lip, spreading the vegetables out to a single layer.

3. Roast vegetables about 35-40 minutes, stirring twice, until lightly caramelized.

4. Remove baking sheet from oven and place the vegetables in a large saucepan. Add the chicken stock and with an immersion blender process the soup until smooth. Make sure to keep the blender stick at the bottom of the pan, while pureeing, to avoid any splattering.

5. Add remaining 1 cup of stock, nutmeg, salt and pepper and bring to a simmer. Taste for seasoning. (If you find the soup needs a bit more sweetness add a pinch or two of brown sugar.)

6. In a small bowl, mix sour cream with remaining 1 teaspoon each of thyme and sage. Add salt and white pepper and taste for seasoning.

7. When ready to serve, heat soup to just simmering and ladle into warm bowls. Swirl a spoonful of herbed sour cream into each bowl and sprinkle with fresh thyme.

Advance Preparation: May be prepared up to 1 day ahead through step 6, covered and refrigerated. Reheat gently. This soup also freezes well. Adjust the seasonings when you reheat the frozen soup.

Ok. I love burgers but trying to drop a few pounds has steered me towards lighter, yet tasty, burger options. And since the lazy days of summer are  right around the corner I wanted to try out a fitting barbecue dish that will make my guests happy and satisfied. These salmon burgers will do the trick. My tasters all agreed these are just delicious.

Look for fresh salmon with some fat streaked through it so that the final burger will be moist. If you find a trut-worthy fish monger who knows the origin and farm where his fish comes from, you can select a farm-raised salmon. I like to coarsely chop half of the salmon and then add it to the ground ingredients before forming into a burger. The chopped salmon pieces offer moistness to the mixture. Remember that salmon cooks quickly and you just want to cook the fish until it is done in the center. If you don’t have access to a barbecue you can sauté them instead.

This shallot, mustard, lemon and dill flavor combination brings out the salmon flavor. The mayonnaise and breadcrumbs bind everything together. The tartar sauce can be lightened up by using light sour cream and mayonnaise. If you can find capers packed in salt, you’ll appreciate their big flavor profile. Rinse them well before using. This recipe doubles and triples easily. Just grind the ingredients in batches. You can make these up and refrigerate them 4 hours before serving.

I like to serve a coleslaw dressed with lemon, olive oil and fresh herbs to accompany these fish cakes. Even better, place a big tablespoon of the slaw on top of the burger and cover with the top. A Chardonnay with lots of fruit flavors and plenty of body is a good match for the firm fleshed salmon and a creamy tartar sauce. Similarly, a crisp, dry Pinot Gris or Sauvignon Blanc will pick up on the cucumbers and dill, and cut through the creamy texture quite well. Enjoy.

Help is on the Way

• Serve this recipe as a delicious appetizer by dividing the burger mixture into 24 small patties. Cook all the patties in 3 tablespoons of olive oil heated in a large skillet, 2 minutes on each side till just cooked through and golden brown. In a preheated oven at 350ºF, warm 24 mini pita pockets. Trim off the top 1/3 of the pita pockets. Spoon 1 teaspoon of tartar sauce into the pocket, place a patty in each and garnish with a small amount of coleslaw. Arrange on a large platter and serve with cocktail napkins.

Salmon Burgers with Tartar Sauce

Serves 4

Tartar sauce

¼ cup sour cream

¼ cup mayonnaise

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoons capers, rinsed and drained

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh dill

2 tablespoons finely chopped cucumber

1 pound salmon, filleted and skinned, cut into 2 inch pieces

2 shallots, peeled and minced

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill

Pinch of cayenne pepper

½ teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

½ cup fresh breadcrumbs or Panko crumbs (Japanese bread crumbs)

3 tablespoons olive oil, for sauteing

4 Brioche or Hamburger buns

4 crisp lettuce leaves

1 thinly sliced red onion

1. In a small bowl, whisk together the ingredients for the tartar sauce till well combined. Cover and refrigerate till serving.

1. In a food processor coarsely chop half of the salmon mixture and set aside. Combine all the remaining burger ingredients and pulse until well combined. Add the reserved chopped salmon and pulse just to combine.

1. Form into 4 equal patties.

1. Preheat the barbecue for medium-high heat grilling. Cook the burgers 3 to 4 minutes on each side or until just cooked through the center and golden brown. Alternately, heat the olive oil in a large sauté or grill pan. Place the burgers in the pan and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes per side or until just cooked through the center.

1. Put a lettuce leaf and a slice of red onion on the bottom bun; or a tablespoon of favorite coleslaw. Place the burger on top. Garnish with a dollop of tartar sauce. Put the top on and serve.

It’s dreary and cold out there. Dreaming of a sunny summer day with dishes made with fresh green basil pesto is just that— a dream. So what’s a cook to do? My answer is to take advantage of what IS seasonal and make it into a celebration of fresh flavor. So toss out the basil and use fresh dill, mint, chives and parsley.

Pesto is an uncooked sauce, originating in Genoa, Italy, that traditionally uses fresh basil, garlic, pine nuts, Parmesan or Pecorino cheese, and olive oil. The ingredients can either be pounded with a mortar and pestle or pureed with a food processor.

This Winter Pesto is a wonderful cure for the cold-weather doldrums and can be made a few days ahead. Winter herbs are combined with the creamy distinctive flavor of toasted pistachio nuts, a spark of fresh lemon zest along with the cheese and olive oil. Parmesan cheese is milder than the sharper sheep’s milk Pecorino. Toasting the pistachio nuts brings out their rich flavor. Add the cheese right before serving so that you can use the sauce with or without it. Use a light fruity olive oil so that the other flavors will stand out.

Try this:

On your favorite pasta

On top of ricotta or goat cheese as an appetizer

Swirled into your favorite vinaigrette or soup

As a coating for fish or chicken

Cold Weather Pesto

Makes about 1 1/4 cups

1/2 cup raw pistachio nuts

3 medium garlic cloves

1 1/2 cups fresh Italian parsley leaves, firmly packed, (about 1 medium bunch)

3 tablespoons finely chopped chives

2 tablespoons fresh dill weed leaves

2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves

Zest of 1 lemon

1/2 cup olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese or Pecorino Romano (or half and half)

1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Place the nuts on a baking sheet and toast them for about 5 minutes or until lightly browned and fragrant. Reserve.

2. While the motor is running, add the garlic cloves to a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process until pureed.

3. Add the herbs and process until finely chopped. Add the nuts and finely chop.

4. With blades turning, slowly pour in the olive oil in a fine stream. Scrape down the sides of bowl to blend the ingredients. Add pepper.

5. Just before serving, add the cheese and process until well blended. Taste for seasoning.

6. Refrigerate the pesto in a tightly covered container until ready to use.

ADVANCE PREPARATION: May be prepared 1 week in advance through step 4 and refrigerated. Add cheese just before serving.